What do you think of the Artist reiss...

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Author Message   John Shanley (Johns) Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    I have a couple of Artists and was intrigued by the '98 Artist Reissues. I was not very impressed with the low end models (the 200 & 700). But have never seen a 2000 in the store to look at or play. They seemed to priced at around $1300. The VV flame tops look very nice in the pictures, but why no block MOP/Abalone inlays? Anybody got an experiences with a real live one?   John Shanley (Johns) Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    Here's a picture from the catalog to drool over.   Kyle Kruszewski Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    Eh, it still doesn't look as cool as yours. . . :)   John Shanley (Johns) Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    But the top is killer from 20 feet away, no?   Greg Kelm Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    I played one last month in the Guitar Gallery in Orlando...very sweet guitar with excellent workmanship. The flame top was nice...not quite as good as the catalog pic. It was strangely 3-d, at a certain angle, some of the flame along the top face (where your arm rests) would disappear. The flames were there...just not as visible from that angle. I've never seen that on a flamed top. Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of experience with older Artists for comparison, but I was impreessed with the 2000.   JohnS Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    Greg: I've noticed that photos can often enhance a flame top more than the human eye. I have a trans blue birdseye maple-topped guitar that looks breath-taking in photos. But it doesn't look that way in real-life unless you really play with the viewing angle and lighting. I've never played an AR2000 (nor seen one live). Someday, I'd like to. Anybody yearn for the original cloud-shaped piece behind the stop tailpiece? I do. I know it doesn't do anything...except set the guitar apart from an LP wannabe. Also, how about some MOP/Ab block markers? I guess there should be an AR3000. And an 5000 that has a vine. Yeah, baybee! J John(AustinPowersWithAnArtist)S   spiro Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    I own 2 AR3000's an AR5000 and a 1999 AR200 The new one sound wise does not compare to the older ones . the older ones are brighter and are better made than the newer ones. Nice top but thats about it...Older ones are alot heavier Yeah why didnt they do the AB/MOP inlays or even bring out the good old preamp again Maybe they should re issue the 5000   spiro Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    Sorry I meant to say an AR2000 200's are very different, more like an Epiphone with two cutaways.   spiro Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    Oh by the way does any one know if can still get a cloud or if they have on for sale   JohnS Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    Spiro: How did you find your 3000s and 5000? 2 things I've seen on certain Artists are LP-like pickguards and the Vine of life on the freatboard. Were these standard or custom orders? regarding parts: check out Dusty Rhoad's message in the Miscellaneous/Ibanez Parts thread.   Bill Courtney Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    I bought a Korean AS200 new for $450 a couple of years ago and I love it. Great low, clean action with no tech tweaking required, great pickups, solid tuners, nice neck width (modern Gibson LPs are getting too narrow for me), nicely done. I've looked at a lot of used Artist solidbody models over the years and they all were too beat up, too high action, too much fret wear, wacky active electronics, and overpriced. The only thing I would replace it with would be a nice LP Custom, and even then I'd still find room for the AS200 somewhere! I was a vintage player, had a couple of LP Customs and 335s, and got tired of pouring money into them to get them in shape. If only Ibanez came out with a single cutaway model, I'd be in nirvana.   JohnS Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    Bill: I was a little confused because you wrote *AS*200. That's a semi-hollow model designation and it isn't made in Korea. I guess you mean the *AR*200. My experience is that there are some really great ARs from the 70s & 80s. I own 3 of them, all different: '77 all ash, '85 all mahogony & '82 maple/magohony. The cheapest was the '82 at $550 which is near mint, w/OHSC. (I haven't had to take any in for setups or fretwork, btw.) For $100 more than you paid, I got a guitar that has extra wide binding, block MOP/abalone markers, tiger flame maple top, gold hardware and tri-sound mini toggles on both pickups. (I could be wrong but, I think the neck joint on the newer ARs is not as smooth as the older models, also.) Sure, except for the versatile pickup circuitry, all the differences are cosmetic. Cosmetics won't make you play better, but they do add to the value of a guitar. I'm glad you like the newer ARs, especially compared to much more expensive brand names. Maybe I've just found better samples of older ARs. I find them to be great players, at great values.   Guitar Tim Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    After drooling over the AR2000Prestige photos and specs on Ibanez's website, I decided to bite the bullet and buy one. It arrived perfectly set-up from the factory and drop-dead gorgeous! The AAA flame top is very close to the one in the catalog, but even more intense at certain angles. The workmanship is unbelievable. Those '6 extra steps of hand finishing' they advertise is evident everywhere from the woodgrained headstock overlay to the gold straplock end pin. The neck joint is smooth as the rest of the back of the 3-piece neck. The rosewood fingerboard was a bit dry, but a thin coating of 'Fiddlebright' cured that. Tone? You've got to hear it through any tube amp to really appreciate it's range and clarity. It sounds better than my old faithful '78 'AS200'and that's saying something. I also own a late model GB10NT, but that's another story. On the AR2000, I only wish they'd included an ebony neck with abalone block inlays. The abalone dots are ok though. These guitars are the best I've seen from Ibanez. One drawback...it'll make your friends very jealous!   michael mcdee Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    I have a new korean ar250 and the workmanship seems to be quite outstanding. its very comforable and cool playing ax. Its my first ibanez and i am more then happy with it.I haven't noticed any flaws with it like i would would find on a new gibson theese days. And the 2000 is killer looking how does it play and sound and where is it manufactured?   Guitar Tim Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    Mike, congratulations on purchasing your 'first Ibanez...'. The AR250 is a very nice instrument. If you get hooked like the rest of us Ibanez junkies, it will not be your last one. And you'll be writing notes like this as part of your therapy sessions too! :-) You asked about the playability,sound and manufacture location of the AR2000. After over a year of playing my '98 AR2000, I still think it is the best sounding solid body (LP type) instrument I've encountered. It is totally/tonally different than my killer SRV, but no LP style guitar is a Strat) Yes, I've test-driven LP's, PRS's and even some older Artists, but this baby is the one. Maybe I lucked up in some respects since 'Spiro' wrote last year about how much better his older Artists sound compared to his current Artist Reissue (AR2000 Prestige). Or maybe his needs seasoning or his other guitars are just that incredible. (Let us know the latest on your tone machines, Spiro) Each instrument has it's own personality, tone and vibe. And each player brings out certain aspects of these traits. For my hard-earned money I'll take a chances with a high-end Ibanez like this reissue any day over those other over-priced, over-hyped guitars on the market. But enough of my editorials. The AR2000 Presitige I purchased was manufactured in Japan according to it's serial number and headstock imprint. If you see one that has something other than 'Made in Japan' on the reverse of the head stock, I'd be surprised. It still knocks me out each and every time I open the case. I just stand there for a moment and stare at her as if she is the 'Playmate of the Year', live and waiting to be caressed. (I know, I'm sick!) But the amber Vintage Violin (VV) flame top is so magnificent, almost 3D. I'm always surprised why so many guitar shops do not stock more of them. I had to special order it after convincing the salesman that I knew exactly what I wanted. He had only heard about this model, but never saw one 'live' either. When it arrived over two months later, he gasped when he saw it's beautiful flame top and examined the overall high quality. I just smiled and glanced over at those $3,000 - $4,000 'high end' solid bodies still hanging on his wall for sale. Mike, I don't know if I've answered your questions, but let us know how you like your AR250's tone over the long haul. These solid babies change for the better with age. Take care. Guitar Tim   Steve (Gitfiddle1) Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2001 - 10:43 pm:    Guys, Taking nothing away from the early Artists, or the late AR2000, you really ought to give the newer AR200/250/700's a fair shake. They may not have the "vibe" of the old ones, but they play great. I bought an '98 AR200TR new in early 2000. It played great and sounded fine right out of the box. After I detailed the neck and tweaked the action to my personal liking, it was outstanding. If you're only concern is cosmetics, then I understand your disappointment in the AR200 and AR250. However the AR700 is/was gorgeous IMHO. Now before ya'll flame me, I also own and play a 1982 Artist. I was originally looking for an early '80's AR100, but I don't really like the finishes (colors) on those. So I bought the AR200 instead. I must confess that I have modified the '98 AR200 in the year that I've owned it (gold hardware and Super58 pups). This was not done to correct any defects but to make it look and sound more like it's older cousin (the '82). However, the trans red finish on the AR200 makes it stand out from all the other Artists out there. Even with the mods it still cost me less than half of the AR2000's tag. I like it !! Cheers Steve PS. Anybody wanna sell me a black AR200?   JohnS Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2001 - 6:12 pm:    Steve: There's an AR200 at my local Sam Ash. I've never held a 700 in my hands, but I have the 200 and 2000. No contest. What kind of pickups came in the '98 AR200? Isn't the binding thin (in the cutaways) on that model? I asked the Sam Ash guy if they had any AR2000 Prestiges. He said no, because they go for $1500 and people would rather have an LP for that. Hmmmm.   Steve (Gitfiddle1) Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2001 - 8:24 pm:    John, I was in no way trying to put the AR200/250 on the same level as the AR2000. It's like comparing apples to oranges. I just find it bothersome that many folks won't judge a guitar on it's own merits. I guess my point is that, for the money, I think they're terrific guitars. What other choices do you have in a set-neck, mahogany/maple body, carved top guitar for $549(current Guitar Center price for the AR250)? Line 'em up, and the Ibanez looks pretty good! The AR200/250's come with Axis (AH1/AH2) pick-ups. They provide a somewhat "generic" tone(IMHO). Ibanez seems to think they're pretty good. They put 'em in damned near everything! I didn't swap 'em for the Super58's cause I didn't like 'em. I just wanted the vintage Super58 sound. Not "good" or "bad", just different. BTW, I think the Super58's get better with age. The one's I put in the AR200 were from an '83 Roadstar. The binding on the AR200/250 is a thin, single layer, cream color. Mine has very consistant thickness all around the body. My heart was pumping pretty hard when I first saw the AR2000. I would be reluctant to buy one, however, 'cause I'd be scared to death of taking it anywhere. I'll hold my tongue where LP's are concerned. (over rated, over priced, clunky... OOPS) I refuse to own a guitar I'm afraid to gig with. Hell, I get nervous when I haul out my AR112. But I have no choice there. What else am I gonna find in a 12-string, mahogany, solid body? I asked about a black AR200 'cause I've got a pair of mint, 1980, V2 pick-ups lookin' for a home. It'd be a nice compliment to the Super58 equipped red one. He he he... Cheers Steve BTW, I haven't forgotten about getting you photos and info on my AR112 for a tour page. I just been too busy enjoying your website! *grins*   Ice (Mark_Hartman) Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2001 - 3:34 pm:    My local store has a AR2000 in stock and priced at $1199 (or something real close, can't recall exactly). I am a total sucker for anything with that much flame...WHOWWEEE! I would seriously consider purchasing one of those too - BUT - Ibanez missed the boat (IMHO) by not putting the more ornate inlays on the neck. Anything but dots - please! I'm sure it sounds terrific though. I'm not a pro-player and buy guitars as much for looks sometimes as anything else. Which is why I bought a flamed-top Jay Turser with a dragon inlay all the way down the neck. Gorgeous! Plays great! $350 - NEW. Anyhow - that's my virtual two-cents!   Jeff Hildreth Posted on Monday, April 09, 2001 - 3:34 am:    I am waffling between an AS200 and an AR2000 Yes I know they are different animals.. This will be my first Electric having played acoustics for many many years.. I am looking for a versatile guitar for blues, Jazz primarily... Any advice here..the Ar2000 is a beuatiful guitar Displaying my total ignorance..is the AR chambered. or completely solid.. Thansk Jeff   Jeff Hildreth Posted on Monday, April 09, 2001 - 3:36 am:    I am waffling between an AS200 and an AR2000 Yes I know they are different animals.. This will be my first Electric having played acoustics for many many years.. I am looking for a versatile guitar for blues, Jazz primarily... Any advice here..the Ar2000 is a great looking guitar Displaying my total ignorance..is the AR chambered. or completely solid.. Thanks Jeff   JohnS Posted on Monday, April 09, 2001 - 7:53 am:    Jeff: If you are going to through Jazz into the equation, I'd go with the AS200. It's a very versatile guitar. I've got 2 of them. The AR2000 is a solid guitar. I've never played one. But I do have 4 Artist solidbodies, in nearly every flavor of wood they made, including the maple top mahogony body of the AR2000. Great guitars, but I'd wouldn't pick it up to play a jazz tune. That's my $.02.   Jeff Hildreth Posted on Monday, April 09, 2001 - 12:17 pm:    Later today I will be looking at a privately owned early 80's AS200..the guy has owned it for years.supposedly excellent plus condition with case He has rarely played it..amtter of fact, his first and only guitar..says he may be getting too old to learn From a phone description he says the only sign of wear is tarnished "gold" bits... He is supposed to call later today.. I think one of his concerns is value.. I have done as much research as I can and have come up with $600-1200 depending on condition Is there anything special I should look for and is there a serial n umber on the label and is it possible to age the guiytar with that Thanks Jeff   JohnS Posted on Monday, April 09, 2001 - 12:36 pm:    Jeff: If it's in as good shape as he says, is 100% original and it comes with original HS case. Then $800-1200 is the going rate. As a matter of fact, $800 would be a real bargain. You can determine the age by looking at the serial number on the headstock. If it's a pre-1987, it should start with a letter, which stands for the month of manufacture. The next 2 digits would indicate the year. So A81xxxx would be Jan. '81. It'll say "Artstar" on the headstock, if it's post '87. And it gets a little more complicated. The serial number should start with an H or F. In this case, the letter stands for the factory in Japan where it was made. The next digit would be the last digit of the manufacture year. So, F8xxxxx would mean it was built in the Fuji factory in 1988. If it starts with a C, it's Korean made and probably not an AS200. If I were you, I'd do a Keyword Search on "AS200". That way you'll be very familiar with these guitars. Hope this helps,   Jeff Hildreth Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2001 - 9:23 pm:    The guy finally called I will see the guitar tomorrow Serial B824796 He is firm at $800 I'm hoping for the best.. Will post results manana Jeff   JohnS Posted on Wednesday, April 11, 2001 - 10:06 am:    Jeff: $800 for an excellent condition, '82 AS200 is a deal. Others here will be waiting in line if you don't take it. Seriously, even if you bought it and decided it wasn't what you wanted, there's a good chance you'd make some money reselling it. JohnS   Jeff Hildreth Posted on Wednesday, April 11, 2001 - 5:49 pm:    OK...here ya go...bad news/good news Bad news..price went to $850 Good news A. Condition;don't know how you rate them but I'd call it an 8.5 plus 1. 100% original 2 Original hardshell case in 7.0 plus cond with some external scuffing'perfect hardware &interior 3. No scratches or dings..except some button type mini lines and grooves.. ..minor minor tiny bit of lac crack around jack plug..tiny tiny Gold is tarnished/worn on the pickups, tiny itty bitty fret wear..that will polish...guitars is as straight as an arrow..Tabacco sorta sunburst B. Came with decent strap C. He threw in an electronic tuner, metal guitar stand, misc books, strings, 30 picks D. And a 12W Fender Music Master Bass amp in 100% original cond... Will give you a report later when I completely check out all the knob and switch functions What strings do you recommend.. I am used to 12-53 or 13-54 on acoustics.. Have no clue as to gauge and brand to use. Since this is my first ever electric guitar in exactly 40 years of playing I am totally stoked and have this board and Especially John S to thank for throwing me under a bus..!!! Back Later with more details.. Jeff H Plugged in to So Oregon   Steve (Gitfiddle1) Posted on Wednesday, April 11, 2001 - 8:03 pm:    Jeff, So Oregon? I think we're neighbors. Well, we're closer than our Australian friends! If you're accustomed to the 12-13 range, I wouldn't go any lighter than 11-52's. I like D'Addario EXL's. Congradulations on your new baby! Do you have an amplifier? Steve   Jeff Hildreth Posted on Wednesday, April 11, 2001 - 8:55 pm:    OK...new evaluation There are no finish scratches ..just the minor litte shirt button types..the little laquer cracking around the jack is far less than even described earlier Fret board is jet black with those cool diagonal segmented ab blocks..near nil fret wear The top and backs are perfectly bookmatched with some modest curl..very cool.. All the electronics work..tone and volume and switches all function..however I do not understand the function of the "tri tone switch" the black toggle..seems more like normal,muted and more mute what is its functuion..how is it properly used Also are the huge post screws on the bridge supposed to be tightened all the way so the bottoms of their flanges touch the top? And some of the bridge adjuster shoes face one way other the other direction..do you understand.. sorry about my description.. Ibanez makes one very fine product if this is typical..far superior to the 335's Ive looked at better than many Guild and Gretsch, nice unit very classy As far as the Amp..see my first post..this Fender Music Masater Bass 12w is it for the moment And I need a recommendation here..I dont need or want lots of toys or pedal or gizzets..just a decent 30-40 watt...I am not going to be playing "out" so looking for something for a bluesy jazzy application.. Steve ..I am on the Calif border..30 miles west of Medford/Ashland in Williams...I was on the Monterey Peninsula for most of my life till 2 years ago.. Thanks again...now to learn to play...!! First thing I learned is "light" touch...not used to that.. Jeff H   Mark Munchenberg (Munch) Posted on Wednesday, April 11, 2001 - 11:04 pm:    Jeff, Congrats on your purchase. You know own one very fine flexible jazz/blues/ rock guitar. For an amp I would suggest a Fender Blues Deluxe or Hot Rod Deluxe. These are modern channel switching valve amps designed to recapture the sound of Fender amps of old. I own a Blues Deluxe myself and cannot recommend it highly enough. It is a 40 watt amp with one 12" speaker housed in a robust conveniently sized cabinet. This amp is great for both the bedroom and the stage - more than enough power to cope with loud drummers. Regarding your bridge - the two posts on either side adjust the height of the bridge so you can set the action high or low. The bridge saddles are generally set up with the E and A strings facing the tailpiece, and the rest facing the neck. The tailpiece studs should be screwed down as far as they go (flanges touching body) to provide the steepest string angle off the back of the bridge. This gives better tone. I agree with Steve on strings use .11's as a minimum. Experiment with flatwounds vs roundwounds too. Flatwounds are warm, roundwounds are bright. Have fun, Mark   JohnS Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2001 - 10:29 am:    Jeff: Are you saying you got the guitar, tuner and amp all for $850? That's a great deal. I'm not familiar with the amp, so I can't comment on it. How much did you want to spend? would be an appropriate question to ask. Also, you might want to look at these threads in the Miscellaneous section: What Kind of Amp do you use? and A QUESTION ABOUT AMPS... Regarding your bridge, take a look at this message thread: Vintage & Custom Electrics: A Early 2619 Question. There is a picture of some bridges. The top one was used in the 70s and early eighties. Is that what you have? If not, you have a newer Gibraltar II bridge (much better design). There should be thumbscrews under the bridge that ride up and down on the screw posts that are secured into the top. It would not be normal for those thumbscrews to be sitting directly on the guitar's top. The tailpiece has posts secured in the top. They should be screwed down so the flanges rest on the top (not over-tightened so as to crack the top though). I can post some pictures of mine, if you want. I use Fender strings, 10s, usually. It'll take you a while to "find" your "electric roots". That would include preferred string brand and guage. Current conventional wisdom says that heavier strings give you more tone. But they are harder to bend. I read a recent BB King interview and he said: "Why kill your fingers to bend strings? Go for a lighter guage." (paraphrased) So, there's no right answer for everyone. Start with recomendations, but experiment. Sooner or later you'll find what you like. And then that will change, too.   Jeff H Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2001 - 11:01 am:    Yup ..1982 AS200, OHSC, quality strap, Fneder Amp Stand, tuner, and dont forget the 3 vintage 73 books, and 30 flimsy Herco and, Dunlop and Jojns Guitar Shop piks.. $850 I have reevaluated the guitar ..its a 9.0 minus The case is now an 8.0 I did not explain bridge tailpiece well.. still getting used to electric guitar parts.. The anchoring device was the one where I was cioncerned about whether the Large screws should be tightened flush with the top..they are not so I will do this... As I am also a mando player I am used to the adjustable bridge...this one just needs a slight raising on the bass side.. Ill look at the early 2619 thread and identify the bridge/hardware assembly. Still do not know the function of the smaller tri tone toggle..what does it affect when and why, Also I not there is a white AS120 on Elderly music site for $650...quite a few differences.. I am beginning to understand I may have gotten a good deal. This my first electric...never thought I would owne one, spent most of my waking hours bad mouthing them..wow..what I have missed... never thought I would own one or would say I even liked em...new world..very cool.. Thanks Jeff H   JohnS Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2001 - 1:32 pm:    Jeff: The guitar and deal keeps getting better with every message. That's a good feeling. I can't think of a reason why the tailpiece anchor posts would not be tightened down properly. They would have been deliberately unscrewed. Oh well, just be careful not to overtighten them and use a big enough screwdriver that the head doesn't slip and damage the slot. The metal isn't really that hard. Sorry about forgeting the Tri-sound switch explanation. The loudest should be regular humbucker mode. That means that both coils are being used with the current flowing in opposite directions. This defeats the natural humming noise generated by each coil. Next position is called either "parallel" or "reverse phase". It's using both coils but the current flows through each one differently (I'll let someone else explain it correctly). This will produce a slightly different tone. The setting with the lowest volume is "single coil" mode. Meaning that only one coil is working, thus the lower volume. It's the closest to a traditional Strat pickup. Very trebly. On the downside, it will pick up interference from flourescent bulbs, TVs and computer monitors.   Jeff H Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2001 - 2:20 pm:    So now I am thoroughly confused You have a toglle to select neck or bridge pickup or both So does the tri tone switch function in conjunction with each one of those posotions Given your description of it..makes no sense Sorry for the ignnorance.. Appreciate the help.. The Amp is now cleaned up to 7.5 Plus.. Jeff H   JohnS Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2001 - 3:33 pm:    Jeff: The tri-sound switch only works with the neck position pick up. So, throwing the tri-sound switch will have the most effect when only the neck pickup is selected. Slightly less effect when both pickups are on. And no effect at all when only the bridge pickup is active.   Steve (Gitfiddle1) Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2001 - 7:55 pm:    Back to the original theme of this thread, anybody got an opinion on the "AX" variants? I really liked the AX320T, but it only lasted one year. I had a GAX70 for a while (my AR200 replaced it). Quickly out grew it, but I still think it's the best under $200 guitar you can buy. Steve   Fredb (Fredb) Posted on Saturday, October 27, 2001 - 4:03 pm:    I'd have to agree with the earlier posts on the AR2000, I think Ibanez missed the boat with not putting the MOP/abalone/MOP block inlays on it. I know it's a cosmetic thing, but something about the higher-end markers really adds to the appeal. My own story of getting into the older Ibanez models was that Ibanez didn't make the guitar I actually wanted at the time (AR300), so I picked up a '79 AR300 at a guitar show and haven't looked back. I grew up on a AR100 and couldn't afford the higher-end Artist models growing up so maybe there's a LP Studio v. LP Custom kind of sentiment to all this. Another point on the other reissue Artists, I've heard dealers pull the same kind of stories pitting "Korean made" v. "Japanese made" models, (just like they used to do with "Japanese made" v. "American made" guitars) with reference to quality. I'd say the best way to reissue the Artists would be to do the AR300, AR500/AR3000, and AR5000, and make them all in Japan with smooth heel neck joints and all the other '70s specs. A good part of this board would then line up to buy at least one, myself included. Another wish list item would be to see a reissue 2617. Fred   Laskyman (Laskyman) Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2002 - 2:16 am:    Hello- I am new to this group, but not to Ibanez. I have only had one guitar for the past 15 years- an Ibanez PL 1770, which has been one of the best playing guitars I've ever touched, and the real reason I never really *wanted* another, until now.... I have decided to persue an Artist style ( 2 HB, mahogany/maple, no bolt-on, etc...) but honestly cannot afford the absolutely beautiful AR2000, or other high end American made styles (Gibby, PRS, Hamer, Heritage). I was hoping that someone out here could give me a honest review of the Korean AR250, as there are none within 500 miles of me to check out myself. Are they well made with decent hardware? Attractive? Good sounding/playing? I REALLY would appreciate some honest feedback! Is this guitar worth the $600, or should I hold out for an auction on a vintage 70's/80's artist. By the way- this is a great little group- glad there are others who enjoy Ibanez and are sick of the hecklers who hate them. Laskyman   Johns (Johns) Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2002 - 11:53 am:    Laskyman: I'm very biased, but I feel the AR250 and even the AR700 (Or whatever number it was designated) are missing something that the previous Artists had...a distinct personality. IMO, the epitome of the Artist series was between 1975 and '79/'80. This generation was physically different from the 80s generation. It was lighter and longer and some years had the smooth-heel and brass sustain block. The pickups where totally unique, too. The 80s generation is thicker and because the neck was set further into the body, became shorter. Over the years, it lost a few of the cosmetics that made it stand out. Like the cloud on the tail and the rounded, but not sculpted heel joint. Certainly these were not technically inferior, in anyway. The Gibraltar 2 bridge and the Super 58s are great features, AAMOF. But the character was whittled away in the quest to be an LP-killer. My impression is that it became a better LP than an LP. But the Artist that Steve Miller, Mike Rutherford and Pat Methany played was gone. Except for the Prestige models, the newest Artists are all about price points and are still too preoccupied with being just like an LP. From another POV, if you were to buy and then sell the next day, I don't think you will get your money out of a reissue like you will an older model, especially a late 70s. Like I said, I'm biased.   Neilh (Neilh) Posted on Thursday, March 06, 2003 - 8:10 pm:    Hello All, I am new here and have been looking for a good Ibanez resource for sometime. I believe I have found it. Firstly, I am a lousy player, but have a great appreciation for guitars in general. A many years ago I came across an Ibanez Artist Super Edition just taken in on trade at one of the local large music stores. I bought it and have enjoyed tinkering with it and just looking at it ever since. I have never been able to really come up with much info about it but have been reading here and you all seem to have a very good understanding of the guitar in question. Mine is a strange opal like yellowy off white. Cream binding, gold, inlays, the works. Two extra switches which I assume are the tri sounds I have read somewhere here. I have many unanswered questions about it that one of you might be able to answer for me. I do not know the model number for a start. I have no idea, without that, just what it's made of, the pick ups, etc. I also would like to source a part for the Whammy. The handle is gone. It's blocked anyway, but I would like it to be complete. If any can shed somemore light on this I would very much appreciate it. Neil   Johns (Johns) Posted on Thursday, March 06, 2003 - 9:21 pm:    Neil: Welcome. Glad to hear that you have been enjoying your Artist for many years. I'm sure we can help with supplying info about it. First off, it sounds like you have an AR350PW. Please let us know what the serial number is. That will help identify the exact year of manufacture. My guess is that it will start with a letter and the next 2 numbers will either be 85 or 86. Anyway the PW, stands for the finish: Polar White. That model was available in a blue (MS: Marine Sunburst) and red (FR: Fire Red). Cosmetically, the guitar is essentially an AR300. It would have a flame maple top and mahogany body, 3 ply maple neck, an ebony fret board with MOP/Abalone block inlays. The pickups are Super 58s with Tri-sound switching. THe hardware is gold and the peghead has a veneer of rosewood. The big difference is it has the Pro Rock'r tremolo and Top Lok II string clamp. A source for the trem arm? That's the hard part. Lots of people are missing them and looking for replacements. Our own Mr. Roadstar was looking into manufacturing them if there was enough interest. What else would you like to know about the AR350?   Neilh (Neilh) Posted on Thursday, March 06, 2003 - 10:09 pm:    Well that was quick! The serial number is about the only thing I was able to sort out J850202, so October of 85 and the 202 built (that month?). That seems to be the most common information out there. How rare is this thing? I must admit that I have never seen another like it, although I have seen more than a fair share of Artists. I am also missing the working bits of the Top Lok. What are these worth if you don't mind me asking. I hate to say what I paid for it........Perhaps I should make a note of all of it for insurance purposes... Thanks Very Much! Neil Neil   Munch (Munch) Posted on Monday, March 10, 2003 - 5:46 am:    Neil, I happened to find a red one in a pawn shop in Australia last year. It was not in a condition that was good enough for me to hand over any folding stuff, but they were asking $695 for it which is around $400 US. This would be somewhat under market price in the US - Australia is not as hip to Ibanez as America is. Cheers, Mark

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